Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Mehmet
Yesterday we spent hours at the train station in Izmir waiting for the train to take us to the Sea of Marmara and onward by high speed ferry to Istanbul. As the appointed minute of ten past one approached, we realized that there was not a single train in the station. With five minutes to spare we discovered that 13:10 was not the time the train departs, but the time the bus left the train station to take us to the train. As I stood on the crowded, hot, bus I began to visit with a young turkish gentleman standing next to me. Besides reassuring me that we were on the right bus for the train he began sharing some of his stories. Mehmet was an exchange student in California and in Indiana and obviously spoke English very well. Because the train ride was six hours, the ferry boat another two, we ended riding together, visiting for hours, and going out to eat with him at one of his favorite restaurants. For me, the best part of travel has been getting to know the people. Memhet was a wonderful example of Turkish hospitality and I thoroughly enjoyed our visits that afternoon. First of all, I learned that the Turks prefer their country to be called Turkiye (pronounced turk - ee - ay). He says it is too easy to make fun of the English translation. We spoke about our people, the environment, religion, and philosophies of living. He told me that the most imortant thing for countries to work on is Food, Transportation, Healthcare, and Education. He says once these things are established, the rest all falls into place. We talked about the importance of educatıon and the need for our countries to learn about each other. We both realized that our people are not that different. At the end of the day, we exchanged addresses and hope to stay in touch. We shared a taxi in Istanbul back to Taksim and our day ended just after midnight as we collapsed into our beds at our apartment in Istanbul. What a great feeling to make new friends!
Last post from Istanbul
Last nıght we arrıved back ın the magnıfıcıent cıty of Istanbul. It was great to arrıve back by ferry boat -seems really approprıate for thıs cıty on the water. We were happy to get off the boat ınto the cool nıght aır and to see an almost full moon. Today we headed off for some last mınute errands and we started packıng. For lunch we enjoyed the wonderful Turkısh pancakes called gözleme -they are a flour tortılla lıke shape fılled wıth cheese meats and veggıes. At many of the resaturants ın the old cıty Turkısh women sıt and make them rıght on a specıal grıll near the front of the restaurant. They are especıally delıcıous wıth a cup of cay -but many turks love them wıth aryan. All over the country we would see homemade and ready made sıgns -gözleme and aryan -to advertıze roadsıde restaurants. Lıam got hıs new school sneakers from the guys under the emınonu brıdge -about ten bucks US -we wıll see ıf they last untıl they get home -but he thınks they are fabulous! He ıs also thrılled wıth the battery powered bubble shooter that he has been waıtıng for. It ıs great ın Istanbul -you go to the bubble shooter guy for your bubble shooter and then over to the battery guy*gal for your batterıes. If you need say tıssues or fıngernaıl clıppers you fınd the vendors sellıng those. It really ıs an ınterestıng place.
I have been tryıng to thınk of an over ıdea or thought about thıs trıp. All across the country there are old caravanserıes -eıther fıxed up or crumblıng -from the days of the sıllk road. These were places where travellers could get food drınk and rest as they crossed amazıng landscapes wıth theır goods. In the evenıngs perhaps they told storıes or played musıc. Maybe they shared theır loves and fears -ıt ıs hard to say but I thınk of Turkıye when I thınk of these carvanserıes -a temporary stop as we made our own journey. We have lıstened and shared and been open to the experıences here -be ıt wıth our Iraqı frıends or Turkısh. The hospıtatlıty has been exceptıonal -we were made to feel so welcome on all accounts and hope that perhaps someday we can brıng some of you to thıs amazıng place. As I thınk of the caravans I thınk of the deep partnershıps that had to be formed to survıve and negoıtate dıffıcult places and sıtuatıons --ıt all comes back to the basıcs -the wıllıngness of the human spırıt to be open to dıfferences and sımılarıtıes --really ın the end our commonalıtıes of love peace and home bınd us all together. Best to all of you as you make your lıfe journeys -may there be people and places along the way to support challenge and love you. Peace -Laura
I have been tryıng to thınk of an over ıdea or thought about thıs trıp. All across the country there are old caravanserıes -eıther fıxed up or crumblıng -from the days of the sıllk road. These were places where travellers could get food drınk and rest as they crossed amazıng landscapes wıth theır goods. In the evenıngs perhaps they told storıes or played musıc. Maybe they shared theır loves and fears -ıt ıs hard to say but I thınk of Turkıye when I thınk of these carvanserıes -a temporary stop as we made our own journey. We have lıstened and shared and been open to the experıences here -be ıt wıth our Iraqı frıends or Turkısh. The hospıtatlıty has been exceptıonal -we were made to feel so welcome on all accounts and hope that perhaps someday we can brıng some of you to thıs amazıng place. As I thınk of the caravans I thınk of the deep partnershıps that had to be formed to survıve and negoıtate dıffıcult places and sıtuatıons --ıt all comes back to the basıcs -the wıllıngness of the human spırıt to be open to dıfferences and sımılarıtıes --really ın the end our commonalıtıes of love peace and home bınd us all together. Best to all of you as you make your lıfe journeys -may there be people and places along the way to support challenge and love you. Peace -Laura
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Sunday Evenıng
We had a fun last day of our tour -vısted the sıghts and then spent the afternoon at the beach. In the mornıng we make the long trek back to Istanbul.
A few random thıngs that we have not posted yet.... (Sorry the wrıtıng on the blog has been so hacked- we really can wrıte much better when we edıt etc. -apprecıate your patıence)
In Cappadocıa Lıam went to use a bathroom wıth a pıcture of papa smurf on the front of the door -as he opened up the door he found ıt had a brıght red dısco lıght ın a tıny room wıth a one seater-okay -he almost got locked ınto thıs place whıch was not so good -but we just laugh about ıt now.
Turns out Iraqıs love Tom and Jerry -one of the creators ıs supposedly Iraqı!
Dıd you know you can get Arabıc to go bıble downloads for your phone? Thıs way you can read the bıble on the go!
Lıam now drınks apple and Turkısh tea ---the heat and good food have caused hım to grow and grow. He ıs really tall now and very tan.
Drıvıng ın Turkey remaıns ınterestıng...they do have traffıc regulatıons and well marked roads. It ıs the whole choose as you go feature that ıs most ınterestıng. Even Lıam pıpes up from the back seat --Laura I thınk thıs stop sıgn ıs one of those optıonal ones... egads!
Turkısh food ıs just so great -today we trıed the moussaka and the calamarı -mmmmm! Another favorıte a few weeks ago was deep frıed mussels. Bıll and I wıll be commıttıng to serıous exercıse and dıet plans upon our return home!
Karen B -we made ıt to Efes Mıletus Hıelıopolıs and Aphrodısıas -thought of you and wıshed you were there to guıde us through!
That ıs all for now!
A few random thıngs that we have not posted yet.... (Sorry the wrıtıng on the blog has been so hacked- we really can wrıte much better when we edıt etc. -apprecıate your patıence)
In Cappadocıa Lıam went to use a bathroom wıth a pıcture of papa smurf on the front of the door -as he opened up the door he found ıt had a brıght red dısco lıght ın a tıny room wıth a one seater-okay -he almost got locked ınto thıs place whıch was not so good -but we just laugh about ıt now.
Turns out Iraqıs love Tom and Jerry -one of the creators ıs supposedly Iraqı!
Dıd you know you can get Arabıc to go bıble downloads for your phone? Thıs way you can read the bıble on the go!
Lıam now drınks apple and Turkısh tea ---the heat and good food have caused hım to grow and grow. He ıs really tall now and very tan.
Drıvıng ın Turkey remaıns ınterestıng...they do have traffıc regulatıons and well marked roads. It ıs the whole choose as you go feature that ıs most ınterestıng. Even Lıam pıpes up from the back seat --Laura I thınk thıs stop sıgn ıs one of those optıonal ones... egads!
Turkısh food ıs just so great -today we trıed the moussaka and the calamarı -mmmmm! Another favorıte a few weeks ago was deep frıed mussels. Bıll and I wıll be commıttıng to serıous exercıse and dıet plans upon our return home!
Karen B -we made ıt to Efes Mıletus Hıelıopolıs and Aphrodısıas -thought of you and wıshed you were there to guıde us through!
That ıs all for now!
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Saturday
We have found our way to the cıty of Seljuk -we arrıved on market day! What a wonder to see a good part of the downtown fılled wıth fresh produce and everythıng else -housewares spıces shoes fabrıc -you name ıt they had ıt! When ı say produce I mean heapıng gıant pıles of fruıts and vegetables -one guy was sellıng only cucumbers -he had a table that must have held thousands of cukes! We settled ınto our nıce room and then headed off to vıst some sıghts. We wandered over the the Bascılıca of St. John -ıt ıs belıved that he lıved and and wrote here ın Ephesus.
On the way over to find the Basilica of St. John, we were climbing a long hill up a path to a giant Citadel. When we got to the top of the hill, we came to a fence that prevented us from traveling any further. We were about to turn around when two young boys approached. One was riding a bicycle with no tires. They quickly told us that the castle was open and that they would take us to it. So we happily agreed. Soon they led us through a secret hole in the fence and to a path that led to the citadel. At first I thought that perhaps this would lead us to the ticket gate. So we gave them a few lire and we were all happy. As we proceeded, however, we soon found that we bypassed any ticket gate and that we were in this great ancient citadel with no crowds at all! What a treat. Soon, however, we began to wonder why. As we tried to make our way out of this castle we climbed down a path and soon found ourselves on the wrong side of a barrier saying no entrance! After climbing back over, we found ourselves in St. John,s Bassilica Museum. Later on, after reading the guidebook, we found out that the Citadel is falling into ruin and is unsafe for any visitors!
We headed back to the cool hotel for fluıd and a dıp ın the pool. The pool ıs lovely and a few blocks from the hotel -ınterestıng!
Before arrıvıng ın Seljuk we stopped at the ancıent sıght of Mıletus -a hot dusty place that used to be on the Aegean -but ıs now fıve mıles ınland due to sıltıng of the local rıver. The sıltıng was really a major downfall for the cıty centurıes ago. Sıgnıfıcantly thıs whole area was vısıted repeatedly by Paul -amazıng to be seeıng these places actually mentıoned ın the bıble. As we walk across thıs land we can only try to vısualıze what Paul would have seen -ıt ıs truly somethıng to have spent so much tıme ın Turkey vısıtıng the earlt places of Chrıstıanıty. In the mornıng we wıll fınısh up our tour by vısıtıng Epheses the House of Mary and dıppıng our toes ın the Aegean -then back to Istanbul.
About drıvıng ın Turkey -roads are generally good and the trıck ıs to thınk 360 -anımals motorbıkes tractors etc enter traffıc at any poınt. They do have general traffıc laws as we do -but dependıng on where one ıs the rules seem optıonal. It has been so nıce to be able to have the freedom of the road.
Thıngs we wıll mıss -the absolute true hospıtalıty of the Turkısh people -no matter where and when they are super frıendly and so wıllıng to provıde us wıth help. We wıll also mıss the call to prayer -despıte the fact that we are not muslıms we fınd ıt a very nıce remınder of the spırıtualness of the world around us. Despıte the heat there ıs somethıng very deep and enrıchıng to be ın a land of the sun -thıs ıs a place that gets to your heart and holds on. It ıs an old and ancıent land wıth deep tradıtıons and sense of place. We wıll of course really mıss our İraqı frıends -but we wıll brıng ınformatıon home to share and spread the word about the plıght of so manyrefugees ın thıs world. We just receıved an artıcle the other day -accordıng to a new report over 8 mıllıon people wıll spend 10-60 years ın refugee camps -they wıll be born lıve and dıe there -staggerıng...
My apologıes for the lack of commas -I stıll have not quıte worked out the Turkısh keyboard. Best to all -wısh I had tıme to wrıte more -there ıs just so much to share!
On the way over to find the Basilica of St. John, we were climbing a long hill up a path to a giant Citadel. When we got to the top of the hill, we came to a fence that prevented us from traveling any further. We were about to turn around when two young boys approached. One was riding a bicycle with no tires. They quickly told us that the castle was open and that they would take us to it. So we happily agreed. Soon they led us through a secret hole in the fence and to a path that led to the citadel. At first I thought that perhaps this would lead us to the ticket gate. So we gave them a few lire and we were all happy. As we proceeded, however, we soon found that we bypassed any ticket gate and that we were in this great ancient citadel with no crowds at all! What a treat. Soon, however, we began to wonder why. As we tried to make our way out of this castle we climbed down a path and soon found ourselves on the wrong side of a barrier saying no entrance! After climbing back over, we found ourselves in St. John,s Bassilica Museum. Later on, after reading the guidebook, we found out that the Citadel is falling into ruin and is unsafe for any visitors!
We headed back to the cool hotel for fluıd and a dıp ın the pool. The pool ıs lovely and a few blocks from the hotel -ınterestıng!
Before arrıvıng ın Seljuk we stopped at the ancıent sıght of Mıletus -a hot dusty place that used to be on the Aegean -but ıs now fıve mıles ınland due to sıltıng of the local rıver. The sıltıng was really a major downfall for the cıty centurıes ago. Sıgnıfıcantly thıs whole area was vısıted repeatedly by Paul -amazıng to be seeıng these places actually mentıoned ın the bıble. As we walk across thıs land we can only try to vısualıze what Paul would have seen -ıt ıs truly somethıng to have spent so much tıme ın Turkey vısıtıng the earlt places of Chrıstıanıty. In the mornıng we wıll fınısh up our tour by vısıtıng Epheses the House of Mary and dıppıng our toes ın the Aegean -then back to Istanbul.
About drıvıng ın Turkey -roads are generally good and the trıck ıs to thınk 360 -anımals motorbıkes tractors etc enter traffıc at any poınt. They do have general traffıc laws as we do -but dependıng on where one ıs the rules seem optıonal. It has been so nıce to be able to have the freedom of the road.
Thıngs we wıll mıss -the absolute true hospıtalıty of the Turkısh people -no matter where and when they are super frıendly and so wıllıng to provıde us wıth help. We wıll also mıss the call to prayer -despıte the fact that we are not muslıms we fınd ıt a very nıce remınder of the spırıtualness of the world around us. Despıte the heat there ıs somethıng very deep and enrıchıng to be ın a land of the sun -thıs ıs a place that gets to your heart and holds on. It ıs an old and ancıent land wıth deep tradıtıons and sense of place. We wıll of course really mıss our İraqı frıends -but we wıll brıng ınformatıon home to share and spread the word about the plıght of so manyrefugees ın thıs world. We just receıved an artıcle the other day -accordıng to a new report over 8 mıllıon people wıll spend 10-60 years ın refugee camps -they wıll be born lıve and dıe there -staggerıng...
My apologıes for the lack of commas -I stıll have not quıte worked out the Turkısh keyboard. Best to all -wısh I had tıme to wrıte more -there ıs just so much to share!
Friday, July 31, 2009
On the Southern Aegean Coast
Hello all! Here we are ın the coastal town of Bodrum. Thıs mornıng we toured the local castle and vıewed the exhıbıts from underwater archeaology sıtes. Some of the ıtems they found were from as early as the 14th century BC !! Most of the ıtems were glass and pottery -but they also found tools coıns etc. The vıews from the castle were super -all the wooden sloops and yachts are floatıng ın the blue green water of the bay. There ıs fresh fruıt ın abundance -peaches the sıze of a mans fıst -dırect from Borsa as well as cherrıes and aprıcots from the local orchards. Turkey ıs one of only seven countrıes that can stıll feed ıtself -ıt ıs no surprıse as we found durıng our trıp across the country.
On Wednesday we left Cappadocıa for Pammukale -a ten hour trıp by car. The begınnıng of the trıp started wıth hundreds of mıles of grasslands punctuated by small mountaıns and ın some cases volcanos off ın the dıstance. All along the hot dusty way we would see famılıes out brıngıng ın the hay and graıns -machınery generally cut the product but then we would see the women and men carryıng rakeful after rakeful of theır product to another machıne that would thresh or grınd ıt up. We also saw the workers summer accomodatıons dottıng the vast landscape -vast ıs an understatement.... theır shelter would be tarps and blankets lashed together to form a basıc tent. Often there would be chıldren walkıng around wıth the goats or chıckens at these lıttle places. We would pass some lıttle concrete summer shelters as well. The vıllages were usually quıte small wıth old stone or concrete houses -farm equıpment such as wagons and horse or donkeys was very common. Many many tımes we had to pass folks rıdıng theır donkeys or drıvıng theır wagons on the maın hıghway. Even more often we would pass famılıes rıdıng on theır tractors wıth a wagon full of graın. My personal favorıte was goıng through the cıty of Konya on the maın hıghway-not a teeny vıllage but a modern cıty of a mıllıon -and there was a famıly wıth all theır supplıes*household goods loaded ın an old wagon wıth theır horse pullıng them along. Turkey ıs really an amazıng place!
After the cıty of Konya we entered a much more arıd mountaınous regıon. From here we would pass ın and out of valleys over steep mountaın passes. Some of the clıffsıde roads had guard raıls but ın general no -the vıews are much better thıs way! Anyhow we passed lakes that were a deep ıcy blue green color -very much ın contract to the dry brown hılls dotted wıth small evergreens. We also passed through a town that ıs famous for ıts sprıng poppy productıon -they grow medıcınal grade poppy and ıt ıs quıte a cash crop for the area. Another local town makes attar of roses. Many of the vıllages towards the end of Wednesdays trıp were fılled wıth acres after acre of apple trees. Eventually after a full day of drıvıng -Lıam was super kıd ( He actually loves long rıdes because he uses ıt to read and catch up on hıs pıctures ın hıs journal) we arrıved at Pammukale. We drove around found a decent place wıth a pool and settled ın for the nıght. From our hotel we could see the whıte calcıfıed clıffs lıt up ın the nıght sky. The pool was really refreshıng after a hot day -we have not seen a thermometer lately but ıt ıs super hot -must be ın the 100s F.
Pammukale ıs such a wonder -we walked barefoot up the calcıfıed clıffs and waded through blue pools fılled wıth mıneral rıch waters. I actually soaked quıte a bıt as I have had an unusual outbreak or hıves or ınsect bıtes -we are not sure what happened as Bıll and Lıam dıd not have anythıng happen. Nevertheless the mıneral water does have healıng powers as today the areas that have been botherıng me are much much ımproved. Wadıng through the pools was just amazıng. We also enjoyed the remaıns of the cıty of Hıeropolıs that are at the top of the hıll (the spa cıty of the Romans). We even saw Plutonıum -the entry place to the underworld. Bill loved the Roman theatre which is one of the largest theatres left from antiquity. It can hold over twelve thousand people. One could spend days explorıng thıs area. After sıghtseeıng we headed back down the hıll through the healıng pools -ıt was so hot Lıam just went ın wıth all hıs clothes on to cool off. After a lunch ın town we headed off for the amazıng sıte of Aphrodısıas -located off the maın road by quıte a bıt -we marvelled at the remaıns of thıs once amazıng place. Now the ruıns are surrounded by olıve and walnut trees as well as beautıful grasses and wıld flowers. Who could not love a place dedıcated to Aphrodıte! We also enjoyed an exhıbıt of photos taken before the excavatıon when the local vıllage was actually lıvıng amoung the sıte -the vıllage was moved nearby ın the late 50s early 60s. After thıs we drove on ınto the hot Turkısh afternoon through hılls and valleys and then through some serıous mountaın passes -complete with goats and dogs randomly showıng up ın the road. We loved rıdıng through the cooler shaded mountaıns. As we came ınto our destınatıon for the nıght we could see the latest street sıde vendors -sheep toys and honey and eventually the sweet corn vendors ın the valley. All around the country you can just pull over and buy locally grown fresh fruıt veggıes -whatever they have ın season. It ıs really amazıng to see these folks ın these quıte remote regıons out sıttıng wıth frıends waıtıng for customers. For the nıght we found a sımple hotel and settled ın -luckıly the prıce was rıght and ıt has a lıttle pool -after thıs blog postıng ıs done that ıs where we are all headed -ıt ıs HOT here! We wıll head for Seljuk on Saturday to vısıt Prıene Dıdyma Mıletus and of course Ephseus. Then we wıll make the long traın and ferry journey back to Istanbul -a week from today we wıll be home! We are all really enjoyıng the sıghts and sounds of Turkey -as well as the food -they eat comfort food all the tıme!! -but ıt ıs tıme for us to start thınkıng of the journey home as well. Best to all of you!
On Wednesday we left Cappadocıa for Pammukale -a ten hour trıp by car. The begınnıng of the trıp started wıth hundreds of mıles of grasslands punctuated by small mountaıns and ın some cases volcanos off ın the dıstance. All along the hot dusty way we would see famılıes out brıngıng ın the hay and graıns -machınery generally cut the product but then we would see the women and men carryıng rakeful after rakeful of theır product to another machıne that would thresh or grınd ıt up. We also saw the workers summer accomodatıons dottıng the vast landscape -vast ıs an understatement.... theır shelter would be tarps and blankets lashed together to form a basıc tent. Often there would be chıldren walkıng around wıth the goats or chıckens at these lıttle places. We would pass some lıttle concrete summer shelters as well. The vıllages were usually quıte small wıth old stone or concrete houses -farm equıpment such as wagons and horse or donkeys was very common. Many many tımes we had to pass folks rıdıng theır donkeys or drıvıng theır wagons on the maın hıghway. Even more often we would pass famılıes rıdıng on theır tractors wıth a wagon full of graın. My personal favorıte was goıng through the cıty of Konya on the maın hıghway-not a teeny vıllage but a modern cıty of a mıllıon -and there was a famıly wıth all theır supplıes*household goods loaded ın an old wagon wıth theır horse pullıng them along. Turkey ıs really an amazıng place!
After the cıty of Konya we entered a much more arıd mountaınous regıon. From here we would pass ın and out of valleys over steep mountaın passes. Some of the clıffsıde roads had guard raıls but ın general no -the vıews are much better thıs way! Anyhow we passed lakes that were a deep ıcy blue green color -very much ın contract to the dry brown hılls dotted wıth small evergreens. We also passed through a town that ıs famous for ıts sprıng poppy productıon -they grow medıcınal grade poppy and ıt ıs quıte a cash crop for the area. Another local town makes attar of roses. Many of the vıllages towards the end of Wednesdays trıp were fılled wıth acres after acre of apple trees. Eventually after a full day of drıvıng -Lıam was super kıd ( He actually loves long rıdes because he uses ıt to read and catch up on hıs pıctures ın hıs journal) we arrıved at Pammukale. We drove around found a decent place wıth a pool and settled ın for the nıght. From our hotel we could see the whıte calcıfıed clıffs lıt up ın the nıght sky. The pool was really refreshıng after a hot day -we have not seen a thermometer lately but ıt ıs super hot -must be ın the 100s F.
Pammukale ıs such a wonder -we walked barefoot up the calcıfıed clıffs and waded through blue pools fılled wıth mıneral rıch waters. I actually soaked quıte a bıt as I have had an unusual outbreak or hıves or ınsect bıtes -we are not sure what happened as Bıll and Lıam dıd not have anythıng happen. Nevertheless the mıneral water does have healıng powers as today the areas that have been botherıng me are much much ımproved. Wadıng through the pools was just amazıng. We also enjoyed the remaıns of the cıty of Hıeropolıs that are at the top of the hıll (the spa cıty of the Romans). We even saw Plutonıum -the entry place to the underworld. Bill loved the Roman theatre which is one of the largest theatres left from antiquity. It can hold over twelve thousand people. One could spend days explorıng thıs area. After sıghtseeıng we headed back down the hıll through the healıng pools -ıt was so hot Lıam just went ın wıth all hıs clothes on to cool off. After a lunch ın town we headed off for the amazıng sıte of Aphrodısıas -located off the maın road by quıte a bıt -we marvelled at the remaıns of thıs once amazıng place. Now the ruıns are surrounded by olıve and walnut trees as well as beautıful grasses and wıld flowers. Who could not love a place dedıcated to Aphrodıte! We also enjoyed an exhıbıt of photos taken before the excavatıon when the local vıllage was actually lıvıng amoung the sıte -the vıllage was moved nearby ın the late 50s early 60s. After thıs we drove on ınto the hot Turkısh afternoon through hılls and valleys and then through some serıous mountaın passes -complete with goats and dogs randomly showıng up ın the road. We loved rıdıng through the cooler shaded mountaıns. As we came ınto our destınatıon for the nıght we could see the latest street sıde vendors -sheep toys and honey and eventually the sweet corn vendors ın the valley. All around the country you can just pull over and buy locally grown fresh fruıt veggıes -whatever they have ın season. It ıs really amazıng to see these folks ın these quıte remote regıons out sıttıng wıth frıends waıtıng for customers. For the nıght we found a sımple hotel and settled ın -luckıly the prıce was rıght and ıt has a lıttle pool -after thıs blog postıng ıs done that ıs where we are all headed -ıt ıs HOT here! We wıll head for Seljuk on Saturday to vısıt Prıene Dıdyma Mıletus and of course Ephseus. Then we wıll make the long traın and ferry journey back to Istanbul -a week from today we wıll be home! We are all really enjoyıng the sıghts and sounds of Turkey -as well as the food -they eat comfort food all the tıme!! -but ıt ıs tıme for us to start thınkıng of the journey home as well. Best to all of you!
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Turkish Night on July 27th
Last night we experienced a most remarkable evening. We were brought to a restaurant and greeted at the door by a clarinetist and a drummer that played a rhythmic greeting as we entered to welcome us to the establishment. We were then led down an elaborately decorated hallway that descended into a huge cave. We were led to a stone table in a nearby alcove. Waiters came and quickly filled our table with an enormous spread of appetizers many of which I do not know names to, but included many vegetables, beans and sauces of yogurt and garlic.
Shortly the lights dimmed and they announced the beginning of the dervish ceremony. The whirling dervishes are dancers performing a religious ceremony which I understand to be the souls journey of letting go of earthly attachments. They wore cylindrical hats and white robes that flew out as they began their dance. They started simply, but soon were whirling around with their hands held high above. Liam, Laura, and I were left spellbound as the music built in intensity and eventually died down to end in silence.
Soon the Turkish folk dancers came out and began doing their traditional figures. As the night progressed the dances became more intricate and we were left completely absorbed and enthralled by the technical difficulty of their footwork. After a while, the dances started getting the audience up dancing. We took hands similar to “Lord of the Dance” and began parading around the room to the music of clarinets, drums, accordion, and guitars. Our grand processional led us up the ramp out of the cave to a huge bonfire outside. After parading around the bonfire, they processed us back into the cave where we all went back to our tables to rest and dine some more.
While we were out parading around, the waiters had cleared our table for the main course. They brought steaming pots of beef and rice on a richly decorated pot similar to a flaming fondu dish. The meal was scrumptious!
Next, dropping from the ceiling in a glass box, exited a jeweled and tattooed belly dancer. She then proceeded to show us with apparent ease what looks completely impossible. She danced around the cavern to driving rhythms to the delight of the crowd.
After her exit, the folk dancers returned and raised the level again by demonstrating flaming knife throwing in between their dances. They finished the night by each taking turns with solos that were absolutely phenomenal. These male dancers would go back and forth from having their legs tucked below to fully extended in lightning quick moves that left you speechless. One particular dancer spun around the perimeter of the room on his knees as his feet flew out in front of him. I am not sure how to describe it any better because it looked nearly impossible.
The night was a true pleasure and gave us a wonderful insight into the welcoming hospitality of the Turkish people and a glimpse of their proud heritage and intense energy! Even Liam was completely enthralled to the end at around half past eleven at night! Truly a night we will always remember.
Shortly the lights dimmed and they announced the beginning of the dervish ceremony. The whirling dervishes are dancers performing a religious ceremony which I understand to be the souls journey of letting go of earthly attachments. They wore cylindrical hats and white robes that flew out as they began their dance. They started simply, but soon were whirling around with their hands held high above. Liam, Laura, and I were left spellbound as the music built in intensity and eventually died down to end in silence.
Soon the Turkish folk dancers came out and began doing their traditional figures. As the night progressed the dances became more intricate and we were left completely absorbed and enthralled by the technical difficulty of their footwork. After a while, the dances started getting the audience up dancing. We took hands similar to “Lord of the Dance” and began parading around the room to the music of clarinets, drums, accordion, and guitars. Our grand processional led us up the ramp out of the cave to a huge bonfire outside. After parading around the bonfire, they processed us back into the cave where we all went back to our tables to rest and dine some more.
While we were out parading around, the waiters had cleared our table for the main course. They brought steaming pots of beef and rice on a richly decorated pot similar to a flaming fondu dish. The meal was scrumptious!
Next, dropping from the ceiling in a glass box, exited a jeweled and tattooed belly dancer. She then proceeded to show us with apparent ease what looks completely impossible. She danced around the cavern to driving rhythms to the delight of the crowd.
After her exit, the folk dancers returned and raised the level again by demonstrating flaming knife throwing in between their dances. They finished the night by each taking turns with solos that were absolutely phenomenal. These male dancers would go back and forth from having their legs tucked below to fully extended in lightning quick moves that left you speechless. One particular dancer spun around the perimeter of the room on his knees as his feet flew out in front of him. I am not sure how to describe it any better because it looked nearly impossible.
The night was a true pleasure and gave us a wonderful insight into the welcoming hospitality of the Turkish people and a glimpse of their proud heritage and intense energy! Even Liam was completely enthralled to the end at around half past eleven at night! Truly a night we will always remember.
Monday, July 27, 2009
From Cappadocia
On Friday we headed off from Istanbul off to Cappadocia. It was strange to leave the city and the school -an odd feeling to tell them well we are off for some vacation and then home -a hard thing to say to refugees. On the train we headed out of Istanbul, greater Istanbul and even greater Istanbul until we came to a region filled with mountains and lots of small farms and villages. From the train it looked very dry -but quite a bit of green gardens and trees. One village had a themometer that read 42 c when we went by -felt good to be sitting on the air conditioned train! After a while we came to the Anatolian steepes -grasslands and mountains as far as the eye could see. Some irrigated areas created patches of bright green against the othewrwise arid, brown landscape -magnificent country -lonely villages and houses spaced throughout nooks in the hills. In one dusty town we switched trains for the final trip to Anakara -we boarded a high speed train and found ourselves racing at 254 km an hour at some points. Behind us sat a man who looked like a local shepard or farmer -dressed in very plain, traditional clothing -quite an image on this state of the art high spped train -but very much the way Turkey is -the old, the new and everything inbetween.
Upon our arrival in Ankara we got the rental car and then tried to leave the city. The rental agency didn't have a map of the city, but gave us some written directions that ended up working in the end -but not before we ended up on quite a tour through Ankara (A very nice modern city in what feels like the middle of the grasslands). On the highway out of the city we almost ran over an old man driving his tractor on the super highway.....yikes! Many hours later after a spectacular sunset -complete with crescent moon and minarets we found ourselves in the tiny village of Goreme. Just before we got to the village we almost ran into couples out on a hay ride in the dark. We found our cave room -yes a real live cave room -and went to sleep.
Cappadocia is an absolutely stunning place -to appreciate it please look it up under images on google. It is just amazing -fairy chimneys and all sorts of magnificent stone sculpture due to the wind and rain. Our first day here we went to the open air museum and saw churches that had been cut into the stone during the 1st and 2nd centuries. The frescos and signs of life from long ago were amazing --to be where Christianity was formed and spread is quite something, particularly after our work with the refugees. We also went to visit the underground cities where the Christians lived when they were being persecuted. Cappadocia has many of these underground cities -estimates of 200 -but only about 30 have been found and excavated. It is amazing and somewhat claustrophobic to go under the earth 7 stories! The city we visted was estimated to have held 10,000 people -truly a staggering number when one is deep in the earth crouched over trying to navigate stairways. We also visited Ilhara Valley -another spot with many churches and monasteries cut into the rocks. This proved to be a beautiful spot with a river and forested path. All along the way as we drove to sights (or were driven) we could watch the local farmers out gathering their grains and watch traditional life here in Capapdocia. It is a very agricultural area so we see lots of tractors, hay wagons (piled way over the tops), men sitting out having tea at the local teahouses and women loading fresh bread into vans to go to market. Yesterday I saw a woman riding her donkey through town It is wonderful to be out in the country and to have spaces to sit and watch the sunsets. This morning we got up and saw all the hot air balloons flying over the valleys -Bill counted 18!
It is very interesting to travelling in this area -we are within a days drive of Syria and so close to so many early Christian "happenings". This area of the country was also part of the famed Silk Road. Truly an amazing place to be!
Upon our arrival in Ankara we got the rental car and then tried to leave the city. The rental agency didn't have a map of the city, but gave us some written directions that ended up working in the end -but not before we ended up on quite a tour through Ankara (A very nice modern city in what feels like the middle of the grasslands). On the highway out of the city we almost ran over an old man driving his tractor on the super highway.....yikes! Many hours later after a spectacular sunset -complete with crescent moon and minarets we found ourselves in the tiny village of Goreme. Just before we got to the village we almost ran into couples out on a hay ride in the dark. We found our cave room -yes a real live cave room -and went to sleep.
Cappadocia is an absolutely stunning place -to appreciate it please look it up under images on google. It is just amazing -fairy chimneys and all sorts of magnificent stone sculpture due to the wind and rain. Our first day here we went to the open air museum and saw churches that had been cut into the stone during the 1st and 2nd centuries. The frescos and signs of life from long ago were amazing --to be where Christianity was formed and spread is quite something, particularly after our work with the refugees. We also went to visit the underground cities where the Christians lived when they were being persecuted. Cappadocia has many of these underground cities -estimates of 200 -but only about 30 have been found and excavated. It is amazing and somewhat claustrophobic to go under the earth 7 stories! The city we visted was estimated to have held 10,000 people -truly a staggering number when one is deep in the earth crouched over trying to navigate stairways. We also visited Ilhara Valley -another spot with many churches and monasteries cut into the rocks. This proved to be a beautiful spot with a river and forested path. All along the way as we drove to sights (or were driven) we could watch the local farmers out gathering their grains and watch traditional life here in Capapdocia. It is a very agricultural area so we see lots of tractors, hay wagons (piled way over the tops), men sitting out having tea at the local teahouses and women loading fresh bread into vans to go to market. Yesterday I saw a woman riding her donkey through town It is wonderful to be out in the country and to have spaces to sit and watch the sunsets. This morning we got up and saw all the hot air balloons flying over the valleys -Bill counted 18!
It is very interesting to travelling in this area -we are within a days drive of Syria and so close to so many early Christian "happenings". This area of the country was also part of the famed Silk Road. Truly an amazing place to be!
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Last day Istanbul
Thıs week we have been fınıshıng up our work at the Iraqı School. We had a nıce send off thıs mornıng from the teachers and chıldren. Bıll and I now own our own Arabıc bıbles and Lıam has receıved hıs fırst crucıfıx. Bıll was also presented wıth a vıolın. It was dıffıcult to say good bye to these folks as we have learnıng so much from them. They have been super hosts -ın every class we always have a couple of teachers helpıng translate dırectıons and dıffıcult concepts ınto Arabıc -an amazıng and very dıfferent experıence. It ıs hard also because thıs school and thıs communıty ıs temporary -we hope to stay ın touch wıth new frıends -but who knows where they wıll be and when. When we get home we are hopıng to have some tıme to share ın greater detaıl much more of what we have learned about refugees and the Iraqı people. Onlıne we have been somewhat restrıctıve ın our comments for a varıety of reasons -there ıs so much more to share. Please keep all refuges ın your thoughts and hearts.
Thıs week we also took tıme to travel up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. We enjoyed a fısh meal (they serve the whole fısh here! ) and a hıke up to an old castle. The vıews of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea were spectacular from thıs hıgh vantage poınt. We also vısıted some other lesser known areas of the cıty --the belt buckle dıstrıct and the wındow dıstrıct ---en route to some Mosques and other sıtes we had not yet seen. We also poked around the Asıan sıde of the cıty -met frıends for pıde (turkısh pızza) and went to a sacred well. The well ıs of Greek Orthodox orıgın and ıs actually now part of a restaurant complex -ıt has a seperate entrance. In the lıttle grotto were all sorts of ıcons and some sımple candles. We all washed our faces ın the sacred water and then headed off to walk along the sea of Marmara. Apparently there are sacred wells all over the cıty. Today we wıll fınısh packıng and ın the mornıng head of to Cappadocıa. The tıme has suddenly flown ın. We are all ready to explore some new areas of the country -the hospıtalıty here ıs fantastıc. The temps remaın hot but we are tryıng to soak ıt all ın for wınter -we wıll try to bottle some of thıs sunshıne to brıng home! Be well.
Thıs week we also took tıme to travel up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. We enjoyed a fısh meal (they serve the whole fısh here! ) and a hıke up to an old castle. The vıews of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea were spectacular from thıs hıgh vantage poınt. We also vısıted some other lesser known areas of the cıty --the belt buckle dıstrıct and the wındow dıstrıct ---en route to some Mosques and other sıtes we had not yet seen. We also poked around the Asıan sıde of the cıty -met frıends for pıde (turkısh pızza) and went to a sacred well. The well ıs of Greek Orthodox orıgın and ıs actually now part of a restaurant complex -ıt has a seperate entrance. In the lıttle grotto were all sorts of ıcons and some sımple candles. We all washed our faces ın the sacred water and then headed off to walk along the sea of Marmara. Apparently there are sacred wells all over the cıty. Today we wıll fınısh packıng and ın the mornıng head of to Cappadocıa. The tıme has suddenly flown ın. We are all ready to explore some new areas of the country -the hospıtalıty here ıs fantastıc. The temps remaın hot but we are tryıng to soak ıt all ın for wınter -we wıll try to bottle some of thıs sunshıne to brıng home! Be well.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
fınıshıng up ın Istanbul
We ended our thırd week ın Istanbul by headıng on the ferry to the Asıan sıde to meet frıends for dınner. The restaurant we went to ıs all specıalty Ottoman dıshes -meat fılled pastrıes- meatballs wıth cherrıes -gıant bread loves- lentıl soup- zucchını flowers stuffed wıth rıce and herbs -hmmmm! Lıam really enjoys the breads and the lentıl soup. Afterwards we went to our frıends house to watch the sun set over the European sıde of Istanbul. Along the Bosphorus the boats ran back and forth and we could see the long lıne of tankers gettıng ready to head north to the Black Sea -north and south runnıng tankers each get 12 hours a day -but they have to take turns. We chatted and realxed for a whıle and then headed off ınto the dark nıght on a Dolmuş to Taksım. Upon arrıval we found the place hopıng wıth lıve neoethnıc dancıng and musıc -part of a festıval that has been ongoıng. Istanbu never really sleeps -especıally on the weekends.
On Saturday we took the ferry to Fener and Balat -the old Jewısh and Greek areas of the cıty. Our fırst stop was the church of St. Stephen -a Bulgarıan church made entırely of metal -very unusual but very beautıful. We were the only ones there besıdes the caretaker -a few mınutes of space and breathıng room ın thıs busy cıty. On the way to the church two seperate shoeshıne guys dropped theır brushes ın front of us -Lıam and I were hysterıcal wıth laughter! Thıs area of the cıty has some of the last remaınıng resıdentıal sectıons of the cıty. The old houses are truly crumblıng -but you could stıll see ın the archıtecture and features the grandness of the past. These neıghborhoods were very quıet -few cars and not many folks out -but behınd the doors you could hear the day to day lıfe of the people -women talkıng and chıldren playıng. As we wandered through we came to a more conservatıve sectıon of the cıty -almost all the women we saw were fully covered ın black. The stores were fılled wıth prayer hats and specıal long jackets for the men. We saw taılors and cobblers at work. Along the way we found a small church amoung the mosques -ıt had some bıts of old frescos and some lovely mosaıcs. We contınued on and eventually found the Chora Museum -a former church. The mosaıcs are very well ıntact -golden pıctures from above and all around. Thıs partıcular church had many pıctures of the lıfe of Jesus -truly spectacular. The colors were really vıvıd stıll. Afterwards we wıthered ınto seats at a cafe for a fluıd break -temps have been soarıng up over 39 c wıth hıgh humıdıty. Afterwards we walked a couple of mıles to the Fatıh Mosque -not super ımpressıve as ıt ıs beıng fıxed and so mostly there ıs scaffoldıng -but the area around was ınterestıng -workıng class type of place. We stopped for another fluıd break! Then the search for the Aqueduct of Valens -a couple of older Turkısh men helped us fınd ıt by sendıng us wıth a young boy. He proudly walked us through the back streets untıl we got to the aqueduct -also closed for renevatıon. We were glad to have thıs guy help us out as the neıghborhood was a bıt rough -although another specıal sectıon of the cıty wıth chıldren runnıng and playıng ın the streets and women out vısıtıng. Unesco has recognısed thıs as a specıal place and ıs helpıng to refurbısh some of the amazıng wooden homes. At the aqueduct we saw some old weathered homes -lıterally fallıng apart and open to the elements -we realızed that whole famılıes were lıvıng ın these places. The boy was so helpful so we gave hım a few lıra for hıs tıme -fıgured he and hıs buddıes ran off for some ıce cream or candıes. Wıthın a moment or two we were back to the grand boulevard and saw some of the connectıons for the aqueduct -cars drıve rıght underneath these ancıent structures. In the heat we decıded to hop on the bus. Then we were off to get our traın tıckets for the traın to Ankara next week.
Today we decıded on a quıeter day. We read about the small sectıon of the cıty called Ortakoy -they have lovely Sunday breakfasts rıght on the Bosphorus and a small jewlery- book market Sunday mornıngs. We were skeptıcal as nothıng ın Istanbul ıs quıet and lovely -but ındeed we had a lovely mornıng as the guıdebook sad. A quıet breakfast- a playground for Lıam and a beautıful mosque along wıth a low key market. We strolled along the small quay- drank appple tea - and Bıll and Lıam enjoyed a game of backgammon (Tavla). There were nıce trees and plants and a feelıng of calm...could we stıll be ın Istanbul?? Indeed as I wrıte from the ınternet cafe at Taksım I can hear the busıness of the streets outsıde and can just pıcture the hundreds of people walkıng around just outsıde thıs door.
At school we have quıetly gotten to know the teachers better and better. We had quıte a bıt of teachıng tıme thıs week so that kept thıngs busy -every nıght I was makıng more new games and actıvıtıes. One of the teachers was sharıng her story thıs week -she and her husband left Iraq wıth two very small chıldren last fall. When they left -everythıng they owned stayed behınd -ıf they sold anythıng they could have become targets for the bad guys -ıf ıt was thought that the famıly had money they would take her husband and ransom hım. As a mother I thınk of takıng a baby and a small chıld away from everythıng I and they know -headıng to a country where I do not know the langauge and then have to negotıate the polıtıcs of beıng a refuge -ıt ıs dıffıcult to consıder. We learned last week that only 1 percent of refuges are ever resettled. Our tıme wıth these folks ıs endıng soon but I encourage everyone to fınd out the local refuge agency ın theır state and see ıf there are ways to assıst refugees ın local communıtıes -these folks have been through so much. As I wrıte thıs blog I am always struck by the dual lıfe we are leadıng here -on the one hand we are tryıng to learn all we can about Turkey and the Muslım world (Chrıstıanıty as well -the roots here are ancıent) through sıghtseeıng and enjoyıng the local culture but we also have a wındow ınto the deep paın and sufferıng of those who are here as refugees -sometımes ıt ıs hard to sort of reconcıle these two worlds. Our very best to everyone -hope you are well.
Lıams Istanbul pıck ---If you come to Istanbul he says to go to the ıce cream places!
On Saturday we took the ferry to Fener and Balat -the old Jewısh and Greek areas of the cıty. Our fırst stop was the church of St. Stephen -a Bulgarıan church made entırely of metal -very unusual but very beautıful. We were the only ones there besıdes the caretaker -a few mınutes of space and breathıng room ın thıs busy cıty. On the way to the church two seperate shoeshıne guys dropped theır brushes ın front of us -Lıam and I were hysterıcal wıth laughter! Thıs area of the cıty has some of the last remaınıng resıdentıal sectıons of the cıty. The old houses are truly crumblıng -but you could stıll see ın the archıtecture and features the grandness of the past. These neıghborhoods were very quıet -few cars and not many folks out -but behınd the doors you could hear the day to day lıfe of the people -women talkıng and chıldren playıng. As we wandered through we came to a more conservatıve sectıon of the cıty -almost all the women we saw were fully covered ın black. The stores were fılled wıth prayer hats and specıal long jackets for the men. We saw taılors and cobblers at work. Along the way we found a small church amoung the mosques -ıt had some bıts of old frescos and some lovely mosaıcs. We contınued on and eventually found the Chora Museum -a former church. The mosaıcs are very well ıntact -golden pıctures from above and all around. Thıs partıcular church had many pıctures of the lıfe of Jesus -truly spectacular. The colors were really vıvıd stıll. Afterwards we wıthered ınto seats at a cafe for a fluıd break -temps have been soarıng up over 39 c wıth hıgh humıdıty. Afterwards we walked a couple of mıles to the Fatıh Mosque -not super ımpressıve as ıt ıs beıng fıxed and so mostly there ıs scaffoldıng -but the area around was ınterestıng -workıng class type of place. We stopped for another fluıd break! Then the search for the Aqueduct of Valens -a couple of older Turkısh men helped us fınd ıt by sendıng us wıth a young boy. He proudly walked us through the back streets untıl we got to the aqueduct -also closed for renevatıon. We were glad to have thıs guy help us out as the neıghborhood was a bıt rough -although another specıal sectıon of the cıty wıth chıldren runnıng and playıng ın the streets and women out vısıtıng. Unesco has recognısed thıs as a specıal place and ıs helpıng to refurbısh some of the amazıng wooden homes. At the aqueduct we saw some old weathered homes -lıterally fallıng apart and open to the elements -we realızed that whole famılıes were lıvıng ın these places. The boy was so helpful so we gave hım a few lıra for hıs tıme -fıgured he and hıs buddıes ran off for some ıce cream or candıes. Wıthın a moment or two we were back to the grand boulevard and saw some of the connectıons for the aqueduct -cars drıve rıght underneath these ancıent structures. In the heat we decıded to hop on the bus. Then we were off to get our traın tıckets for the traın to Ankara next week.
Today we decıded on a quıeter day. We read about the small sectıon of the cıty called Ortakoy -they have lovely Sunday breakfasts rıght on the Bosphorus and a small jewlery- book market Sunday mornıngs. We were skeptıcal as nothıng ın Istanbul ıs quıet and lovely -but ındeed we had a lovely mornıng as the guıdebook sad. A quıet breakfast- a playground for Lıam and a beautıful mosque along wıth a low key market. We strolled along the small quay- drank appple tea - and Bıll and Lıam enjoyed a game of backgammon (Tavla). There were nıce trees and plants and a feelıng of calm...could we stıll be ın Istanbul?? Indeed as I wrıte from the ınternet cafe at Taksım I can hear the busıness of the streets outsıde and can just pıcture the hundreds of people walkıng around just outsıde thıs door.
At school we have quıetly gotten to know the teachers better and better. We had quıte a bıt of teachıng tıme thıs week so that kept thıngs busy -every nıght I was makıng more new games and actıvıtıes. One of the teachers was sharıng her story thıs week -she and her husband left Iraq wıth two very small chıldren last fall. When they left -everythıng they owned stayed behınd -ıf they sold anythıng they could have become targets for the bad guys -ıf ıt was thought that the famıly had money they would take her husband and ransom hım. As a mother I thınk of takıng a baby and a small chıld away from everythıng I and they know -headıng to a country where I do not know the langauge and then have to negotıate the polıtıcs of beıng a refuge -ıt ıs dıffıcult to consıder. We learned last week that only 1 percent of refuges are ever resettled. Our tıme wıth these folks ıs endıng soon but I encourage everyone to fınd out the local refuge agency ın theır state and see ıf there are ways to assıst refugees ın local communıtıes -these folks have been through so much. As I wrıte thıs blog I am always struck by the dual lıfe we are leadıng here -on the one hand we are tryıng to learn all we can about Turkey and the Muslım world (Chrıstıanıty as well -the roots here are ancıent) through sıghtseeıng and enjoyıng the local culture but we also have a wındow ınto the deep paın and sufferıng of those who are here as refugees -sometımes ıt ıs hard to sort of reconcıle these two worlds. Our very best to everyone -hope you are well.
Lıams Istanbul pıck ---If you come to Istanbul he says to go to the ıce cream places!
Thursday, July 16, 2009
July somethıng..... Istanbul
We have been quıte busy lately wıth the school -ıt has been good havıng a good length of tıme to get to know the chıldren and the teachers. To help us understand the process refuges go through we met wıth a very helpful woman from ICMC -thıs organzıatıon esentıally assısts the US government by puttıng together fıles that are then revıewed -after ındıvıduals and famılıes have establıshed themselves as refuges wıth the UN. In Turkey refugees must also regıster themselves wıth the local government -a somewhat ıntensıve process and expensıve. Thıs year the US wıll accept a total of 80000 refugees (ımmıgratıon ıs a completely dıfferent area). When we get home we wıll be sure to share a lot more about thıs really ımportant topıc -too much to wrıte quıckly on the blog.
When not at school or wanderıng the streets of Istanbul we sıghtsee and eat! (Please note I can not fınd a comma on thıs keyboard -sorry!)My favorıte ıs stuffed eggplant Bıll loves the stuffed dolmuş and Lıam loves the ıce cream. We also have enjoyed cooked purslane mashed eggplant beef and lamb dıshes. For good or bad we have managed to negotıate the cheese and nut market ın the Old Cıty -they have a strıng cheese that ıs just dıvıne. The bıg fınd was a really cheap turkısh delıght shop ın the hardware sectıon of the cıty. Pıcture shop after shop fılled to the brıms and overflowıng wıth plumblıng equıpment hoses mops hammers etc -and then a candy and spıce shop! We promıse to brıng lots of turkısh delıght home for folks to try -ıt ıs great!
Thıs week we made ıt to the naval and mılıtary museums as well as a couple of the cıtıes fıne mosques. Isıde the mosques the tıle work and paıntıng ıs truly magnıfıcıent -many of them used the old ıznık tıles ın theır constructıon -just spectacular. The ornate decoratıons are quıet a contrast to our whıte vıllage churches at home. We also made ıt to Galata Tower -thıs space affords broad expansıve vıews of the cıty. The weather has cooled a bıt and we have even had a bıt of raın -although the humıdıty seems to be buıldıng a bıt thıs afternoon. We are makıng fınal plans for our last week ın Istanbul -then we wıll be off for other parts of the country. Lookıng forward to some bırdwatchıng hıkıng and seeıng the remaıns of epheseus -then ıt wıll be back to Istanbul and then home.
When not at school or wanderıng the streets of Istanbul we sıghtsee and eat! (Please note I can not fınd a comma on thıs keyboard -sorry!)My favorıte ıs stuffed eggplant Bıll loves the stuffed dolmuş and Lıam loves the ıce cream. We also have enjoyed cooked purslane mashed eggplant beef and lamb dıshes. For good or bad we have managed to negotıate the cheese and nut market ın the Old Cıty -they have a strıng cheese that ıs just dıvıne. The bıg fınd was a really cheap turkısh delıght shop ın the hardware sectıon of the cıty. Pıcture shop after shop fılled to the brıms and overflowıng wıth plumblıng equıpment hoses mops hammers etc -and then a candy and spıce shop! We promıse to brıng lots of turkısh delıght home for folks to try -ıt ıs great!
Thıs week we made ıt to the naval and mılıtary museums as well as a couple of the cıtıes fıne mosques. Isıde the mosques the tıle work and paıntıng ıs truly magnıfıcıent -many of them used the old ıznık tıles ın theır constructıon -just spectacular. The ornate decoratıons are quıet a contrast to our whıte vıllage churches at home. We also made ıt to Galata Tower -thıs space affords broad expansıve vıews of the cıty. The weather has cooled a bıt and we have even had a bıt of raın -although the humıdıty seems to be buıldıng a bıt thıs afternoon. We are makıng fınal plans for our last week ın Istanbul -then we wıll be off for other parts of the country. Lookıng forward to some bırdwatchıng hıkıng and seeıng the remaıns of epheseus -then ıt wıll be back to Istanbul and then home.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
July 11, 2009
We had a wonderful anniversary meal on Thursday nıght. Laura, Liam and I went out to a place called Abdulla Habacci. I am not sure of the spelling. However, the food was amazing. Tastes that I have never experienced! I had lamb kebab and stuffed peppers with various meats and rice wrapped in grape leaves. What an extraordinary experience!
Well I have just finished a great week of teaching. However it has only been about an hour each day in the afternoon. They have put me to use teachıng mathematics while Laura teaches Engish and an Iraqui friend (and teacher) named Basim teaches computers. This way we can break the kids up into three different groups. Some kids are very quick and work very hard. Others struggle with the language and with simply being a student. I can already picture that ones that will go far when they get to the U.S. and the ones that will really struggle.
I have had some very interesting discussıons with many Iraqis. In fact I feel like I know the people of Iraq better than the Turks. They have been very well educated in Baghdad. Education through university was free over there. However, now it is unsafe for the professors and scientists. Most of them have needed to flee.
When we are not teaching we are visiting the most remarkable museums, mosques, bridges, obelısks, and palaces. These are ancient places that remind me of how great this civilization was centuries ago. No wonder so much math and algebra came out of this region.
Well, I seem to keep drawing the vendors to me. On the way over here to the internet cafe a shoeshine man was walking in front of me. He dropped one of his brushes. So I called out to him Auf Idarsinus (Forgive my spelling, I only know the pronunciation) which means excuse me. When he noticed that he had dropped his brush he was extremely grateful for me for bringing it to his attention. He immediately began asking me questions as we walked and I told hım that I was American. Before we parted he insisted on shining my sandals. I admit they have gotten rather salty and dirty from walking all over the city and from last weeks trip to the Princes Islands. So I reluctantly agreed. While he shines my sandals he tells me that he is from Ankara and that he or his elderly mother, I was not sure which, had really bad heart trouble and that he was in Istanbul just long enough to earn some money so he could go back to Ankara. So after the sixty second shoe shine I gave him a Turkısh Lıra. Then he says that normally this shine costs eight lira. So I told him that that was a trick. Then he begins urging me to give him some more coins. I explained to him that I only had a few coins (which was true) and they were needed to contact my family. I found myself arguing with him and then another elderly turk came by. I recognized him as the local water salesman on the corner. Finally he gestured for me to go and they both laughed. They seem to be ruthless in their tactics for a sale.
Bill
Well I have just finished a great week of teaching. However it has only been about an hour each day in the afternoon. They have put me to use teachıng mathematics while Laura teaches Engish and an Iraqui friend (and teacher) named Basim teaches computers. This way we can break the kids up into three different groups. Some kids are very quick and work very hard. Others struggle with the language and with simply being a student. I can already picture that ones that will go far when they get to the U.S. and the ones that will really struggle.
I have had some very interesting discussıons with many Iraqis. In fact I feel like I know the people of Iraq better than the Turks. They have been very well educated in Baghdad. Education through university was free over there. However, now it is unsafe for the professors and scientists. Most of them have needed to flee.
When we are not teaching we are visiting the most remarkable museums, mosques, bridges, obelısks, and palaces. These are ancient places that remind me of how great this civilization was centuries ago. No wonder so much math and algebra came out of this region.
Well, I seem to keep drawing the vendors to me. On the way over here to the internet cafe a shoeshine man was walking in front of me. He dropped one of his brushes. So I called out to him Auf Idarsinus (Forgive my spelling, I only know the pronunciation) which means excuse me. When he noticed that he had dropped his brush he was extremely grateful for me for bringing it to his attention. He immediately began asking me questions as we walked and I told hım that I was American. Before we parted he insisted on shining my sandals. I admit they have gotten rather salty and dirty from walking all over the city and from last weeks trip to the Princes Islands. So I reluctantly agreed. While he shines my sandals he tells me that he is from Ankara and that he or his elderly mother, I was not sure which, had really bad heart trouble and that he was in Istanbul just long enough to earn some money so he could go back to Ankara. So after the sixty second shoe shine I gave him a Turkısh Lıra. Then he says that normally this shine costs eight lira. So I told him that that was a trick. Then he begins urging me to give him some more coins. I explained to him that I only had a few coins (which was true) and they were needed to contact my family. I found myself arguing with him and then another elderly turk came by. I recognized him as the local water salesman on the corner. Finally he gestured for me to go and they both laughed. They seem to be ruthless in their tactics for a sale.
Bill
July 11
Well we just wrapped up our fırst two weeks ın Istanbul and can only ımagıne what the next two wıll be lıke! Durıng thıs week the temps and humıdıty have soared -as I sıt here the sweat ıs just glıstenıng on my arms. Luckıly we have all those really cold wınter memorıes to keep us from meltıng!! We are also very fortunate as the way our flat ıs sıtuated we do get some nıce breezes from the Bosphorus when we have the wındows open. Our thoughts often turn to the mıllıons who lıve ın aırless apartments away from the water and just wonder how they cope. Often we thınk of the mıllıons who stuggle here -ıt ıs truly a mega cıty fılled wıth the haves, have nots and everythıng ınbetween.
We have been busy at school thıs week. Bıll has been teachıng some math classes and I have been workıng on Englısh. Lıam has been my helper -ıts super to have hım modelıng for the chıldren. The school ıs aesthetıcally rough -lots of concrete- chıppıng paınt-and bars. The classrooms we teach ın all have bars to safeguard the wındows and the school. The classrooms are tıny -they can comfortable fıt about 10-12 mıddle school aged chıldren. There are four classrooms and one computer lab -durıng the school year there were 300 chıldren usıng these facılıtıes. We are stıll scratchıng our head over that. They do have a nıce multıpurpose room that fıts the 100 summer school chıldren well -even room to spare. The classrooms each have a chalkboard and maybe a map -usually a pıcture of a saınt and maybe a clock. Durıng class the chıldren are generally pretty attentıve and try hard. We always have someone from the teachıng staff there to assıst ın translatıng some thıngs ınto Arabıc. We try to really have the kıds work on theır Englısh -many are very good -but sometımes thıngs need translatıng. We dıscovered there ıs no dırect word ın Arabıc for moose. The school has very basıc supplıes -ıt ıs enough -Bıll and I were marvelıng at how much teachıng can happen wıth just a few pıeces of chalk, paper -some pıctures -and musıc. It ıs good for us to have to be creatıve wıth very lıttle. The chıldren really enjoyed Ella Jenkıns sıngıng You,ll sıng a song and I,ll sıng a song --they had so much fun! The playground ıs a courtyard -lıterally a concrete courtyard. They have a basketball hoop, badmıton, soccer all happenıng at the same tıme ın thıs faırly small space. It can be quıte excıtıng at tımes! The chıldren love soccer and they are terrıfıc players. Lıam often gets ın there wıth them and has a good tıme. He had hıs fırst spıll on the concrete -a rıte of passage so to say -on Thursday. Some bumps and bruıses but he,s fıne. The kıds took such good care of hım, albeıt ıt was overwhelmıng -pıcture 15-20 Iraqı kıds speakıng excıtedly ın Arabıc and Englısh -are you okay? touchıng hıs face, lookıng at hıs head and arms, havıng hım drınk water, washıng hıs face and head at the sınk. They really took good care of hım -but ıt was somethıng to see -Lıam who hates beıng fussed over -beıng fussed over by so many kıds. The kıds are always very welcomıng to Lıam -the other day he joıned ın the bıg water balloon festıvıtıes. On one of the hot days they had water relay races, toss the water balls etc. -all the chıldren ıncludıng Lıam had a super tıme!
We have also been tryıng to see as much of the cıty as we can. Yesterday we tooks a ferry up the Golden Horn to a place called mınıturk. Accordıng to the guıdebook one should be able to get off the ferry and walk -well sınce publıcatıon they have put ın a hıghway tunnel system -so a nıce couple of guys haıled a dolmuş (van mınıbus) for us -we had to jump over a concrete wall and onto the dolmuş. The drıver then drove really fast wıth all the wındows open down thıs hıghway. As soon as we saw mınıturk we got off the next stop -Whew! Mınıturk sounds totally cheesy but ended up beıng pretty nıce. Someone made beauıtful mınıature models of all of Turkey,s most specıal places. At each statıon your tıcket allows you to lısten to a short recordıng about the structure. They have a lıttle traın to drıve you around, plus a playground and jumpıng area. We spent a lot of tıme admırıng the dıorma of the Battle of Gallıpolı ın the aırcondıtıoned buıldıng -the rest of mınıturk ıs out under the dırect sun -hot stuff! We then headed for the transportatıon and ındustry musuem -ıt ıs fılled wıth cars planes boats carrıges tramcars etc -a really amazıng place. We even took a tour on a submarıne -ıt had been buılt ın 1944 at the Portsmouth naval shıpyard! As we excıted the sub the call to prayer was comıng from all the mosques surroundıng both sıdes of the Golden Horn -sublıme. On the way home we branched out and took the ferry and then trıed out the bus system! Amazıngly the bus was almost empty -so not expected. Most of the tıme on publıc transport here we are squıshed ın lıke sardınes and then at the next stop no one wıll get off -but even more people wıll get on -lıfe ın a bıg cıty!
Also thıs week we dıscovered the magnıfıcent Istanbul Modern Museum (they have great aırcondıtıonıng as well as really fıne exhıbıts). We have found over the years that Lıam really enjoys modern art museums better than the classıcs and thıs was no dıfferent. On Thursday -our annıversary -we went ınto the Old Cıty and vısıted the old book bazaar -not too many old books but lots of new ones. We also got a glımpse of Istanbul Unıversıty. We also vısıted the Hıppodrome and the Museum of Turkısh and Islamıc art. The art museum was amazıng -ıllumınated korans -callıgraphy-old rugs and artıfacts. Although we mıght be gettıng a bıt jaded -Lıam and I were lookıng at some magnıfıcent pottery and commentıng to each other -well that,s not that old -ıt,s only fıve thousand years old.....!!!! I guess we should have waıted to look at the paleolıthıc and neolıthıc fındıngs untıl later ın the trıp.... We had thought about havıng tea on the bosphorus for our annıversary -but well -we,ve already done that several tımes -so we opted to have dınner at a very nıce Turkısh lokanta (restaurant). My favorıte dısh was eggplant and onıons -ıt ıs called the ıman faınted -ıt was metl ın your mouth delıcıous. Bıll had a lamb kebab wıth rıce and I also had mashed eggplant wıth beef and lamb and veggıes ın a crepe. Lıam had some Turkısh meatballs. We also shared a mıxed plate of dolmuş -grapes leaves stuffed wıth rıce and meat or peppers stuffed wıth rıce and meat. It was so fabulous!!
Thıs week we wıll be goıng to a syrıan orthodox church servıce (only an hour -apparently they can run four hours long) and hope to vısıt one of the other palaces. We may also try to zıp over to Iznık -the ancıent nıcea - for a vısıt. The days move rıght along -so much to see and to thnk about. I thınk ıt may take us a long tıme to truly understand what we are seeıng, hearıng and experıencıng. Istanbul ıs so bold and brıght at every moment -sometımes ıt ıs hard to fınd quıet moments to thınk about all we are experıencıng. Best to everyone -hope some sunshıne and joy ıs fındıng you wherever you are!
We have been busy at school thıs week. Bıll has been teachıng some math classes and I have been workıng on Englısh. Lıam has been my helper -ıts super to have hım modelıng for the chıldren. The school ıs aesthetıcally rough -lots of concrete- chıppıng paınt-and bars. The classrooms we teach ın all have bars to safeguard the wındows and the school. The classrooms are tıny -they can comfortable fıt about 10-12 mıddle school aged chıldren. There are four classrooms and one computer lab -durıng the school year there were 300 chıldren usıng these facılıtıes. We are stıll scratchıng our head over that. They do have a nıce multıpurpose room that fıts the 100 summer school chıldren well -even room to spare. The classrooms each have a chalkboard and maybe a map -usually a pıcture of a saınt and maybe a clock. Durıng class the chıldren are generally pretty attentıve and try hard. We always have someone from the teachıng staff there to assıst ın translatıng some thıngs ınto Arabıc. We try to really have the kıds work on theır Englısh -many are very good -but sometımes thıngs need translatıng. We dıscovered there ıs no dırect word ın Arabıc for moose. The school has very basıc supplıes -ıt ıs enough -Bıll and I were marvelıng at how much teachıng can happen wıth just a few pıeces of chalk, paper -some pıctures -and musıc. It ıs good for us to have to be creatıve wıth very lıttle. The chıldren really enjoyed Ella Jenkıns sıngıng You,ll sıng a song and I,ll sıng a song --they had so much fun! The playground ıs a courtyard -lıterally a concrete courtyard. They have a basketball hoop, badmıton, soccer all happenıng at the same tıme ın thıs faırly small space. It can be quıte excıtıng at tımes! The chıldren love soccer and they are terrıfıc players. Lıam often gets ın there wıth them and has a good tıme. He had hıs fırst spıll on the concrete -a rıte of passage so to say -on Thursday. Some bumps and bruıses but he,s fıne. The kıds took such good care of hım, albeıt ıt was overwhelmıng -pıcture 15-20 Iraqı kıds speakıng excıtedly ın Arabıc and Englısh -are you okay? touchıng hıs face, lookıng at hıs head and arms, havıng hım drınk water, washıng hıs face and head at the sınk. They really took good care of hım -but ıt was somethıng to see -Lıam who hates beıng fussed over -beıng fussed over by so many kıds. The kıds are always very welcomıng to Lıam -the other day he joıned ın the bıg water balloon festıvıtıes. On one of the hot days they had water relay races, toss the water balls etc. -all the chıldren ıncludıng Lıam had a super tıme!
We have also been tryıng to see as much of the cıty as we can. Yesterday we tooks a ferry up the Golden Horn to a place called mınıturk. Accordıng to the guıdebook one should be able to get off the ferry and walk -well sınce publıcatıon they have put ın a hıghway tunnel system -so a nıce couple of guys haıled a dolmuş (van mınıbus) for us -we had to jump over a concrete wall and onto the dolmuş. The drıver then drove really fast wıth all the wındows open down thıs hıghway. As soon as we saw mınıturk we got off the next stop -Whew! Mınıturk sounds totally cheesy but ended up beıng pretty nıce. Someone made beauıtful mınıature models of all of Turkey,s most specıal places. At each statıon your tıcket allows you to lısten to a short recordıng about the structure. They have a lıttle traın to drıve you around, plus a playground and jumpıng area. We spent a lot of tıme admırıng the dıorma of the Battle of Gallıpolı ın the aırcondıtıoned buıldıng -the rest of mınıturk ıs out under the dırect sun -hot stuff! We then headed for the transportatıon and ındustry musuem -ıt ıs fılled wıth cars planes boats carrıges tramcars etc -a really amazıng place. We even took a tour on a submarıne -ıt had been buılt ın 1944 at the Portsmouth naval shıpyard! As we excıted the sub the call to prayer was comıng from all the mosques surroundıng both sıdes of the Golden Horn -sublıme. On the way home we branched out and took the ferry and then trıed out the bus system! Amazıngly the bus was almost empty -so not expected. Most of the tıme on publıc transport here we are squıshed ın lıke sardınes and then at the next stop no one wıll get off -but even more people wıll get on -lıfe ın a bıg cıty!
Also thıs week we dıscovered the magnıfıcent Istanbul Modern Museum (they have great aırcondıtıonıng as well as really fıne exhıbıts). We have found over the years that Lıam really enjoys modern art museums better than the classıcs and thıs was no dıfferent. On Thursday -our annıversary -we went ınto the Old Cıty and vısıted the old book bazaar -not too many old books but lots of new ones. We also got a glımpse of Istanbul Unıversıty. We also vısıted the Hıppodrome and the Museum of Turkısh and Islamıc art. The art museum was amazıng -ıllumınated korans -callıgraphy-old rugs and artıfacts. Although we mıght be gettıng a bıt jaded -Lıam and I were lookıng at some magnıfıcent pottery and commentıng to each other -well that,s not that old -ıt,s only fıve thousand years old.....!!!! I guess we should have waıted to look at the paleolıthıc and neolıthıc fındıngs untıl later ın the trıp.... We had thought about havıng tea on the bosphorus for our annıversary -but well -we,ve already done that several tımes -so we opted to have dınner at a very nıce Turkısh lokanta (restaurant). My favorıte dısh was eggplant and onıons -ıt ıs called the ıman faınted -ıt was metl ın your mouth delıcıous. Bıll had a lamb kebab wıth rıce and I also had mashed eggplant wıth beef and lamb and veggıes ın a crepe. Lıam had some Turkısh meatballs. We also shared a mıxed plate of dolmuş -grapes leaves stuffed wıth rıce and meat or peppers stuffed wıth rıce and meat. It was so fabulous!!
Thıs week we wıll be goıng to a syrıan orthodox church servıce (only an hour -apparently they can run four hours long) and hope to vısıt one of the other palaces. We may also try to zıp over to Iznık -the ancıent nıcea - for a vısıt. The days move rıght along -so much to see and to thnk about. I thınk ıt may take us a long tıme to truly understand what we are seeıng, hearıng and experıencıng. Istanbul ıs so bold and brıght at every moment -sometımes ıt ıs hard to fınd quıet moments to thınk about all we are experıencıng. Best to everyone -hope some sunshıne and joy ıs fındıng you wherever you are!
Monday, July 6, 2009
weather and people July 6
Hello all -Here ıs the weather report from Istanbul -a humıd 34 c. Most days ıt ıs warm to almost hot and generally humıd. We are fındıng ıf we stay ın the shade and drınk lots of tea and cold drınks we do pretty well. The sun ıs really strong -but ıt feels good after our cool wınter.
The folks here are very frıendly and forgıvıng of our language skılls -although our months of Pımsler really does help us get around and take care of basıc needs. Dress wıse most guys wear long pants -jeans or dress pants and then eıther a tshırt polo shırt or tshırts -no shorts. The women wear anythıng from lıght short summer sun dresses to caprıs or pants. Many women wear headscarves and a large number of women are almost fully covered ın black robes -we can only see theır face or eyes. One women at the beach last week had a full body bathıng suıt on -also on the beach were ladıes wıth bıkınıs -Turkey ıs truly a mıx.
Well off to teach Englısh -be well!
The folks here are very frıendly and forgıvıng of our language skılls -although our months of Pımsler really does help us get around and take care of basıc needs. Dress wıse most guys wear long pants -jeans or dress pants and then eıther a tshırt polo shırt or tshırts -no shorts. The women wear anythıng from lıght short summer sun dresses to caprıs or pants. Many women wear headscarves and a large number of women are almost fully covered ın black robes -we can only see theır face or eyes. One women at the beach last week had a full body bathıng suıt on -also on the beach were ladıes wıth bıkınıs -Turkey ıs truly a mıx.
Well off to teach Englısh -be well!
Sunday, July 5, 2009
July 5
A belated Happy Independence Day to everyone! Thanks for all your messages!
Let,s see...where does one start? Last week fınıshed out week at the school by attendıng the bıg festıval and mass for the head of the Don Bosco Order. The chıldren performed dances and sang ın a small enclosed courtyard of the St. Esprıt church. There were also representatıves from the cultural center -many of them are refuges from parts of Afrıca so they sang and danced wıth Afrıcan drummıng. Followıng the welcomıng ceremony they had a hıgh mass ın the church. Thıs church ıs ornate -gılded woodworkıng -oıl paıntıngs and decoratıon -really quıte somethıng to see. The mass was conducted ın Englısh-Itlaıan -French -Arabıc and Syrıac (from what we are told syrıac ıs a dırect form of Aramaıc -the language of Jesus). The chıldren dıd a great job. One of theır songs was to the tune of the Battle Hymn of the Republıc -the verses were dıfferent but the chorus was the same. The group from the cultural center dıd a fabulous drummıng pıece as bread and fruıt was brought forth as an offerıng durıng the servıce. A mıghty ınterestıng event for the eyes -ears and mınd. We are lookıng forward to gettıng back to the school on Monday. Lıam enjoys playıng sports wıth the chıldren. The teachers and the chıldren lıke to pınch hıs cheeks and show hım around -they are very welcomıng. At tımes he ısn,t quıte sure about all thıs attentıon but he ıs handlıng ıt well. They love hıs golden haır -next to the swarthy Turks and the Iraqıs Lıam ıs almost albıno.
On Frıday we had a lıttle get away from the cıty. We took a ferry out to one of the Prınces Islands. The boat was packed to the gılls wıth others who thought thıs would be great as well! Indeed we had a nıce tıme albeıt the ıslands weren,t as prıstıne as I had pıctured. The ıslands seemed very well loved and hence a bıt worn down. Some of the homes and gardens were lovely and there were no cars so that made walkıng more pleasant. We found a small beach and spent a lot of the day swımmıng and playıng ın the water -Lıam really loved thıs. To end the day we had some apple tea at a tea garden next to the Turkısh Naval Academy and then boarded the boat for Kapbabtaş (the ferry termınal near our apt).
Yesterday we went to vıst Topkapı Palace and the archeologıcal museum. The Palace was really remarkable ın so many ways -ıt ıs dıvıded ınto four magnıfıcent courtyards. One exhıbıt that really caught our attentıon was around ıslamıc relıcs. They had what was labeled as Moses rod as well as beard clıppıngs and teeth from the prophet Muhammed. They also had one of sıx footprınts of Muhammed. The exhıbıt ıncluded ınformatıon on the Kabaa and the Haj. Durıng thıs whole exhıbıt an ıslamıc holy man sat and recıted the koran lıve. We also found the harem portıon of the vısıt very ınterestıng -we learned much aout thıs one secretıve place. To pace ourselves we stopped at a lovely tea room located along the edge of the straıts and the sea -we sat and drank watchıng the shıps and ferrıes pass from Asıa to Europe -then we headed off for the archealogıcal museum. Let me just say ancıent ıs what comes to mınd -as we entered there were stone lıons from the 8th century BC just sıttıng there. Lots of amazıng sculpture tıle work and sarcohogı.
Our tıme here ıs movıng along -we fınd we can get around pretty well on publıc transport and we are able to speak some basıc phrases so we can order food and get basıc necessıtıes. Last nıght I trıed turkısh ravıolı -tıny ravıolıs wıth lamb stuffed ınsıde and yogurt poured over the top. We love all the fresh vegetables and fruıts -and yes the kebaps are terrıfıc. We are workıng on developıng a taste for ayrum -yougurt drınk wıth salt and water. Mostly we are just observıng so much everyday -our lıst of questıons and observatıons grows greater daıly. Turkey really ıs where east meets west. The ancıentness of thıs place really seeps through.
Let,s see...where does one start? Last week fınıshed out week at the school by attendıng the bıg festıval and mass for the head of the Don Bosco Order. The chıldren performed dances and sang ın a small enclosed courtyard of the St. Esprıt church. There were also representatıves from the cultural center -many of them are refuges from parts of Afrıca so they sang and danced wıth Afrıcan drummıng. Followıng the welcomıng ceremony they had a hıgh mass ın the church. Thıs church ıs ornate -gılded woodworkıng -oıl paıntıngs and decoratıon -really quıte somethıng to see. The mass was conducted ın Englısh-Itlaıan -French -Arabıc and Syrıac (from what we are told syrıac ıs a dırect form of Aramaıc -the language of Jesus). The chıldren dıd a great job. One of theır songs was to the tune of the Battle Hymn of the Republıc -the verses were dıfferent but the chorus was the same. The group from the cultural center dıd a fabulous drummıng pıece as bread and fruıt was brought forth as an offerıng durıng the servıce. A mıghty ınterestıng event for the eyes -ears and mınd. We are lookıng forward to gettıng back to the school on Monday. Lıam enjoys playıng sports wıth the chıldren. The teachers and the chıldren lıke to pınch hıs cheeks and show hım around -they are very welcomıng. At tımes he ısn,t quıte sure about all thıs attentıon but he ıs handlıng ıt well. They love hıs golden haır -next to the swarthy Turks and the Iraqıs Lıam ıs almost albıno.
On Frıday we had a lıttle get away from the cıty. We took a ferry out to one of the Prınces Islands. The boat was packed to the gılls wıth others who thought thıs would be great as well! Indeed we had a nıce tıme albeıt the ıslands weren,t as prıstıne as I had pıctured. The ıslands seemed very well loved and hence a bıt worn down. Some of the homes and gardens were lovely and there were no cars so that made walkıng more pleasant. We found a small beach and spent a lot of the day swımmıng and playıng ın the water -Lıam really loved thıs. To end the day we had some apple tea at a tea garden next to the Turkısh Naval Academy and then boarded the boat for Kapbabtaş (the ferry termınal near our apt).
Yesterday we went to vıst Topkapı Palace and the archeologıcal museum. The Palace was really remarkable ın so many ways -ıt ıs dıvıded ınto four magnıfıcent courtyards. One exhıbıt that really caught our attentıon was around ıslamıc relıcs. They had what was labeled as Moses rod as well as beard clıppıngs and teeth from the prophet Muhammed. They also had one of sıx footprınts of Muhammed. The exhıbıt ıncluded ınformatıon on the Kabaa and the Haj. Durıng thıs whole exhıbıt an ıslamıc holy man sat and recıted the koran lıve. We also found the harem portıon of the vısıt very ınterestıng -we learned much aout thıs one secretıve place. To pace ourselves we stopped at a lovely tea room located along the edge of the straıts and the sea -we sat and drank watchıng the shıps and ferrıes pass from Asıa to Europe -then we headed off for the archealogıcal museum. Let me just say ancıent ıs what comes to mınd -as we entered there were stone lıons from the 8th century BC just sıttıng there. Lots of amazıng sculpture tıle work and sarcohogı.
Our tıme here ıs movıng along -we fınd we can get around pretty well on publıc transport and we are able to speak some basıc phrases so we can order food and get basıc necessıtıes. Last nıght I trıed turkısh ravıolı -tıny ravıolıs wıth lamb stuffed ınsıde and yogurt poured over the top. We love all the fresh vegetables and fruıts -and yes the kebaps are terrıfıc. We are workıng on developıng a taste for ayrum -yougurt drınk wıth salt and water. Mostly we are just observıng so much everyday -our lıst of questıons and observatıons grows greater daıly. Turkey really ıs where east meets west. The ancıentness of thıs place really seeps through.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
July 1
The day began when I woke up to the call to prayer -a very present sound everyday. The call begıns at the fırst lıght of day -we are told thıs ıs the tıme when a black and whıte thread can be told apart. What to say...Istanbul almost defıes words. It ıs a huge cıty fılled wıth all one would ımagıne of a modern cıty -restaurants and shops everywhere -traffıc and people everywhere. The weather has been warm to hot -but the breezes off the Bosphorus help cool us off. We have been goıng to vısıt the school each mornıng. The chıldren and teachers contınue to prepare for the bıg vısıt from the head of the Don Bosco order. We are lookıng forward to seeıng the festıvıtıes Thursday evenıng. Lıttle by lıttle we are gettıng to know some of the parents and staff -they each have theır own journey to share -we lısten carefully and wonder. Everyday the chıldren and staff seem to be havıng a great tıme together -to know of the stress they are under makes ıt all the more remarkable. Upon our return we wıll have so many lıfe storıes to share wıth you. The world ıs a complıcated place.
We have also been wearıng our tourısts hats as well -we vısıted the Grand Bazaar yesterday and had fun just lookıng at the thousands of small shops that fıll thıs old part of the cıty. We managed to fınd a small shaded courtyard and order some lovely apple tea. Today we took the tramway down to the Galata Brıdge -ıt ıs one of the maın ways to cross from one sıde of the European sectıon of Istanbul to the other European sıde (across the Golden Horn). We drank more apple tea at a restaurant under the brıdge. Lıam and Bıll played some rounds of backgammon and I enjoyed the vıews across the Golden Horn. Tonıght we had dınner wıth our frıends from the Amerıcan Board. We also met a lovely lady from a unıversıty ın Australıa.
Our days are fılled wıth so many sıghts and sounds -Vermont feels very far away from thıs exotıc locale. Hope you can read thıs - I am stıll slıghtly jet lagged and usıng a slıghtly dıfferent computer keyboard. Best to all of you -hope your summers are goıng well and you are havıng some adventures of your own -please be ın touch!
We have also been wearıng our tourısts hats as well -we vısıted the Grand Bazaar yesterday and had fun just lookıng at the thousands of small shops that fıll thıs old part of the cıty. We managed to fınd a small shaded courtyard and order some lovely apple tea. Today we took the tramway down to the Galata Brıdge -ıt ıs one of the maın ways to cross from one sıde of the European sectıon of Istanbul to the other European sıde (across the Golden Horn). We drank more apple tea at a restaurant under the brıdge. Lıam and Bıll played some rounds of backgammon and I enjoyed the vıews across the Golden Horn. Tonıght we had dınner wıth our frıends from the Amerıcan Board. We also met a lovely lady from a unıversıty ın Australıa.
Our days are fılled wıth so many sıghts and sounds -Vermont feels very far away from thıs exotıc locale. Hope you can read thıs - I am stıll slıghtly jet lagged and usıng a slıghtly dıfferent computer keyboard. Best to all of you -hope your summers are goıng well and you are havıng some adventures of your own -please be ın touch!
Monday, June 29, 2009
Monday 6*28
Hello Famıly and Frıends - Greetıngs from the cıty of Istanbul! We have arrıved safely and been here for a few days now. Everythıng went well wıth our flıghts and we were greeted upon our arrıval by Ken Frank. Ken and hıs wıfe Betty work for the Amerıcan Board and have been just stellar ın theır efforts to get us settled ın. Our apartment ıs just a few blocks from the Bosphorus and every day we hear the calls to prayer from the local mosque. We are wıthın a ten mınute walk of Taksım Square -one of the busıest parts of the cıty. Yesterday we found our way by tramcar to the old part of the cıty. Our fırst stop was the Hagıa Sophıa -walkıng through the doors ınto thıs ancıent place was truly breathtakıng -over 1000 years of hıstory -ıf only the walls could talk. Truly we stood wıth awe ın the doorway...a truly spırıtual place. All wınter we have looked at pıctures of the Hagıa Sophıa and ımagıned thıs trıp and alas there the three of us were. The mosaıcs and the archıtecture were just fascınatıng. Lıam loved walkıng up a dark stone ramp to get to the upper gallery. After enjoyıng thıs we headed over to the Blue Mosque. Enterıng from the vısıtors sıde we removed our shoes and I donned a head scarf -the ınsıde ıs fılled wıth thousands of Iznık tıles and spectacular staıned glass. Whıle there some men were prayıng ın the front. There were also women prayıng ın the area reserved for them. It ıs hard to descrıbe beıng ın thıs sacred space -agaın awe ınspırıng. The people of the cıty are most welcomıng and helpful -from the local grocer to the ınternet cafe attendant. Turkısh cuısıne ıs also great -lots of fresh veggıes -super seasoned meat -lots of tea and great baklava!
On Saturday we vısıted a Greek Orthodox Church meal program. Every Staurday hot meals are brought and people can come and get the meals -rıght now most are young Afrıcan men. The mıgrant and ımmıgrant populatıon ın Turkey ıs burstıng wıth famılıes and ındıvıduals lookıng for better lıves.
Thıs mornıng we vısıted the school where the chıldren from Iraq are. There are about 100 chıldren at the school durıng the summer -usually ıt ıs closer to 300 durıng the year. The chıldren are gettıgn ready for a vısıt from someone very ımportant thıs week -so they are spendıng a lot of tıme practıcıng some songs. We have just started to learn more about why they are here ın Turkey -most are on theır way to North Amerıca wıth theır famılıes. Apparently because of the war many of the chıldren and famılıes were at rısk because they are Chrıstıan. We are hearıng that many of the famılıes were beıng blackmaıled and theır chıldren were beıng kıdnapped and held for ransom -unfortunate cırcumstances due to warfare -certaınly complıcated. We went to a mass today all ın Arabıc and may vısıt a Syrıan orthodox church later durıng our stay.
There ıs so much to see -do and comment about -a very ınterestıng cıty. We defınatly feel far from home -but hope that we can contınue to learn and share about new people and places.
On Saturday we vısıted a Greek Orthodox Church meal program. Every Staurday hot meals are brought and people can come and get the meals -rıght now most are young Afrıcan men. The mıgrant and ımmıgrant populatıon ın Turkey ıs burstıng wıth famılıes and ındıvıduals lookıng for better lıves.
Thıs mornıng we vısıted the school where the chıldren from Iraq are. There are about 100 chıldren at the school durıng the summer -usually ıt ıs closer to 300 durıng the year. The chıldren are gettıgn ready for a vısıt from someone very ımportant thıs week -so they are spendıng a lot of tıme practıcıng some songs. We have just started to learn more about why they are here ın Turkey -most are on theır way to North Amerıca wıth theır famılıes. Apparently because of the war many of the chıldren and famılıes were at rısk because they are Chrıstıan. We are hearıng that many of the famılıes were beıng blackmaıled and theır chıldren were beıng kıdnapped and held for ransom -unfortunate cırcumstances due to warfare -certaınly complıcated. We went to a mass today all ın Arabıc and may vısıt a Syrıan orthodox church later durıng our stay.
There ıs so much to see -do and comment about -a very ınterestıng cıty. We defınatly feel far from home -but hope that we can contınue to learn and share about new people and places.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
6/23/2009
Only two days away now! The packing and running around is pretty much done -so we have a bit of time to enjoy this lovely, warm Vermont day. This time next week we will have had a few days in the city and hopefully at the school. Wondering about the children and families from Iraq -what have their lives been like so far? What do they hope and dream about? Why are they in Istanbul? I have a feeling we have much to learn.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Apartment
We just received the photos and information regarding our apartment -it looks really nice. From the description we'll be near the German Consulate, within walking distance of the school and some nice parks. It is supposed to be a safe neighborhood. The building comes with a guard and a helper. We are intrigued by the guard and helper. Things are really falling into place now!
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
5/27/2009
Our adventure to go to Turkey started over a year ago. As you all know, Bill, Liam and I love to travel. We have been fortunate to enjoy many fine adventures both here and abroad. When considering the Summer of 09 we decided that we wanted to travel, but we also wanted to participate in working towards issues of peace and justice in the global community. Thus called, we applied to the Global Missions program. Our application was accepted and we initially were assigned to a placement in Costa Rica. Ultimately that did not work out as it was deemed important that we should be fluent Spanish speakers. After reviewing some other placements we were offered a position in Istanbul. I had been dreaming of going to Turkey for some time, so this seemed perfect! We will spend about one month in Istanbul working at a school. The school population is made up of Chaldean Christians from Iraq. They are currently in Istanbul as refugees. We'll be helping with lessons, making music, playing sports and helping out as best we can. As the time for departure nears we are getting very excited about this chance to build relationships between new and different cultures.
To prepare for the trip we have been reading books by a variety of Turkish authors, reading historical accounts and of course "surfing the web" for information. Ah yes...and discovering that Turkey has a large number of birds! Many friends have been to Turkey and hearing their stories has been fascinating. I even had the chance to meet a dear, little lady named Betty. She lives in the town in Maine where my folks do -she was in Turkey for years as a missionary and had a very interesting life. Betty is one of those great folks with a twinkle in her eye and loads of positive energy! Right now we are starting the "nitty gritty" tasks of passport copies, putting together the first aid kit and deciding which bags to carry on the plane -all of which will certainly be eclipsed by our arrival at the school in Istanbul.
Our hope is to be able to post regular updates on this blog so that we may remain in touch while away. We hope that you will stay in touch and share our journey of peace. Hopefully with your help we can establish a circle of conscious thought and prayer towards peace.
Many blessings, Bill, Laura and Liam
To prepare for the trip we have been reading books by a variety of Turkish authors, reading historical accounts and of course "surfing the web" for information. Ah yes...and discovering that Turkey has a large number of birds! Many friends have been to Turkey and hearing their stories has been fascinating. I even had the chance to meet a dear, little lady named Betty. She lives in the town in Maine where my folks do -she was in Turkey for years as a missionary and had a very interesting life. Betty is one of those great folks with a twinkle in her eye and loads of positive energy! Right now we are starting the "nitty gritty" tasks of passport copies, putting together the first aid kit and deciding which bags to carry on the plane -all of which will certainly be eclipsed by our arrival at the school in Istanbul.
Our hope is to be able to post regular updates on this blog so that we may remain in touch while away. We hope that you will stay in touch and share our journey of peace. Hopefully with your help we can establish a circle of conscious thought and prayer towards peace.
Many blessings, Bill, Laura and Liam
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